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  • How to Evict Squirrels from Your Home
  • Ryan Earl
  • SquirrelsSquirrels in AtticsTrapping & Poisoning

How to Evict Squirrels from Your Home




Evictor Strobe Light Installation for Squirrels in Attics & Crawlspaces
Actual Evictor Strobe Light Installation 

I solve squirrel problems in attics and crawlspaces. They are the really tough problems that wildlife control companies have walked away from. The squirrel problems where shooting, poisoning, electrocuting, and trapping have been tried without success. After 25 years of squirrels in my own attic, as a homeowner I had one of two choices; either learn to live with squirrels or move.  Homeowners will often sell their house and move out in the summer when the squirrels are nesting in trees. Guess what? In the fall new homeowners think they have a new squirrel problem, but it may have lasted for many years.

This article covers the method I use to get squirrels out of attics and crawl spaces. I am 100% successful. What surprises many people is that my techniques are safe and harmless. When I arrive at a customer’s doorstep I tell them they are talking to the right person, and their problems are coming to an end. I have my own techniques and invented a new product called the Evictor that makes permanent squirrel eviction possible. The game is over. I win and they lose.

Understanding the Problem
Talents of the Eastern Gray Squirrel

I’ve seen a squirrel climb the brick wall of a four story apartment house in a matter of seconds. Squirrels can climb stucco just as easily.

Also consider how a squirrel deals with obstacles. It can pull apart terra cotta and slate roofs. A squirrel can chew straight through good quality shingles and sturdy wood to gain access to your house. (My own roof is a perfect example.) With the biting power of 22,000 pounds per square inch, a squirrel can chew through aluminum fascia capping and louvered aluminum gable vents. Even brick is not impenetrable. I have seen where several squirrels climbed down a chimney and pushed in a brick to enter an attic crawl space.

Battling squirrel problems is like fighting a miniature army. A squirrel will chew a hole in high hard to reach parts of the roof. A squirrel may work alone or with others in groups. Several squirrels will work in shifts, day and night. At night they are chewing a hole from the inside of the attic to the outside. That is the aggravating sound you hear at 1:30 in the morning.

Did you ever wonder why you have not actually seen a squirrel chewing a hole in your fascia? Professor James Hare of the University of Manitoba reports; “squirrels warn each other of impending danger, in an ultrasonic voice above our hearing range.”

Squirrels are also very territorial. They have staked off your attic as their territory. In large attics, one end is the nesting area and the opposite end is the latrine. That unmistakable odor of urine is imbedded in your attic, marking their territory.

Keep in mind the life span of an Eastern Grey Squirrel ranges between three and eight years. In houses with infestations spanning decades, generations of squirrels may have been born in a single house. A squirrel mates in early winter and produce offspring by late spring. The average litter consists of four squirrels. A second litter in mid summer is not uncommon. Usually, there is a food stash of nuts stored in the walls, attracting many more squirrels to your house than you might have previously imagined.

Assessment of the Situation
Short or Long Term Problem

A long term squirrel problem is embarrassing. Who wants to admit that a rodent is able to live continuously in their home for twenty or thirty years? It is also dangerous. Roughly fifty percent of all the attics I enter have wires chewed by squirrels. Often, wires are chewed down to the bare copper.

I ask my customers for the real story. How long have squirrels really been up there? “Okay, you have chewed wires in the attic. It smells real bad up there. I see extensive rafter chewing and there is evidence of multiple nesting areas. Outside on your roof, the shingles show aggressive chewing, and the holes in the fascia are now extended slots, not just holes. With the scenario I have just described the infestation has lasted more than twenty years. The solution is the immediate installation of the Evictor strobe lights. I have complete confidence in the use of these lights. The Evictor high intensity strobe light drives squirrels out of an attic 100% of the time. And, it is a permanent eviction.

As an experienced professional, and the inventor of the Evictor, I can quickly assess the damage and determine the seriousness of any squirrel infestation. But what if you don’t work in pest control industry, what if you have little experience repairing your home? What if you have moved into a house in the summer and now in the fall have squirrels in your attic? Home inspectors do not always discover the holes before settlement. And even though the previous owners made no mention of it, there is a nagging question in your mind. Is this a new or an old problem? How bad is my squirrel problem?

This is where I use my own techniques and get my hands dirty:

First, I find the entrance/exit holes. Usually, there are two. This is the small doorway that squirrels have found, or made by chewing, and are using to enter and leave your home.

Then, I liberally coat the rim of the holes with a product called 4-The-Birds Gel. It is harmless, but incredibly sticky and something that squirrels positively hate.

Finally, I leave the holes alone, and return in a few days. Then I look closely at where I smeared the gel. If the gel looks untouched, if there is no fur sticking to it, then the squirrels are not aggressive. After the second inspection I wait an additional three weeks. If the gel still appears undisturbed, I simply close the holes.

If, on the other hand, I return after a few days and the squirrels have been diving through the holes, leaving traces of fur in the gel. If there appears to be more chew marks than before. If holes appear bigger, then no doubt, this is a severe problem. Their aggression tells me that they are returning to their home. A squirrel family can occupy 3 different nests during the course of a year. With severe squirrel problems your warm attic is their most important nesting site. When it starts getting cold outside, they want to be inside your attic.

Those of you with twenty or more years of squirrel problems know that when squirrels really want to come inside, they are coming inside.

Solutions for Squirrels in Attics & Crawlspaces
Create a Nasty Attic Environment

So how is it possible to end a squirrels’ prolonged stay in an attic? Here is the answer in a nut shell (pun intended).

With any squirrel problem, you should first do the things that help your situation. Remove any bird feeders, secure the garbage cans, and cut the tree limbs back around the house so squirrels do not have easy access to the roof.

What squirrels WANT must be changed! Right now they see your attic as a nice place to live and they WANT to be there. A nasty environment must be created, an environment so nasty that they will be repelled and NOT WANT to be there.

Easier said than done, right? Well technology has caught up with the problem. Years ago pest control professionals were able to drive squirrels out of attics with the annoying 500 watt flash of a camera. However, the flash developed so much heat that the technicians were afraid the attic would catch fire.

Today there is a product on the market that does something similar, but does not produce any heat.  The Evictor is a high intensity strobe light that comes in two sizes and pulses 92 times per minute. The power of the smaller unit, the 10K, is 175,000 candlepower and covers 900 sq ft. The power of the larger unit, the 100K, is one million candlepower and covers approximately 1,600 sq ft.

I had squirrels in my own attic crawl space for 25 years. Nothing worked and I was anxious to solve my own problem.  In 2004 I installed 3 of the smaller Evictor 10K units. I have been squirrel free ever since. Sometimes it seems like a minor miracle not to hear them running, jumping, and chewing in the middle of the night.

After the strobe light installation, I was sure I had a winner. I saw the squirrels building a new nest in my backyard maple tree away from my house. I was absolutely convinced when one squirrel descended halfway down the tree and scolded me as I walked by. He seemed to know I was responsible for putting the strobe lights in the attic.

Installing the Evictor Strobe Light in an Attic
The Ticket to a Successful Squirrel Eviction

The Evictor Strobe Light is an important new tool. It can best be described as a visual repellent. It annoys an animal’s eyesight and is intolerable. After installation of the strobe light Flying Squirrels and Eastern Grey Squirrels vacate the attic within one or two days. Occasionally a customer will report an increase in squirrel activity the first night. Don’t worry, the squirrels are just frustrated. Generations may have lived in the same attic for a long time. The strobe light serves them an eviction notice and they are not happy giving up their territory.

First, before entering the attic make noise then stop and listen. The absence of noise in the attic usually means that the animals have left the area. Shine a flash-light into the installation area before entering. Remember, squirrels with babies can be aggressive.

I never want to accidentally surprise a squirrel. If there is a drop staircase I usually slap it against the ceiling a few times before entering the attic. The noise scares them away.

Next, you want to make sure the attic is clear.  In order for the Evictor 10K & 100K strobe light units to work properly, the space must be uncluttered and as dark as possible. No other light source should be on to interfere with the performance of this product while in use. If there are windows in the attic I tape cardboard over them to block off any outside light.

Then, plug in the Evictor.

It is highly recommended that a switch be placed near the entrance of the space where the unit can be turned on and off remotely. I found that for small attics it is convenient to plug the Evictor 10K into a nearby light fixture.

For large attics, where multiple strobe light units are used, I use extension cords and plug them into a power strip placed near the attic opening. Using the on/off switch on the power strip, all the strobes lights can be turned on or off simultaneously.
Finally, for best results, it is highly recommended that the unit be operated continuously.

I do not seal the Entrance/Exit Holes sealed for at least 1 month. Exposure to the strobe light trains squirrels to hate your home and discourages gnawing and further property damage.

I close the holes 30 days after the strobe light installation. I try to leave a small opening for the squirrels to see inside. Then later when they venture back to the house, a view of the strobe light is a reminder that this is one place they do not want to go.

My customers are glad that their squirrel problems are finally over. One woman in particular is very grateful. She suffered with squirrels in her attic for almost 40 years. After installing the Evictor strobe lights in 2004, she is still squirrel free.

  • Ryan Earl
  • SquirrelsSquirrels in AtticsTrapping & Poisoning

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